Princess Celestia – Bodice

Standard

This is the first stage of the Princess Celestia dress.  It took me about 4 hours, which is longer than I expected, but I ended up having to do the sleeves twice, so I might have come in under my time, if I’d done it right the first time.  Here’s how it went:

Bodice
☒  Make pattern

Originally, I was going to use McCall’s 3050 (which is no longer in print and doesn’t seem to be on McCall’s website for me to link to) which we have in our pattern collection at work.  I traced the size larger than my daughter then, intelligently, I left the muslin that I traced the pattern on at work.  Because I knew I couldn’t put off starting the dress any longer, I went to my back-up plan – make my own.  I altered my typical method to reflect the darts that were in the base pattern.

1.  Lay a shirt that fits her well on muslin and trace it in pencil.

1. Lay a shirt that fits her well on muslin and trace it in pencil.

2.  Draw in the sleeve holes and expand the lower section to make darts.  Alter the neck line to reflect design.

2. Draw in the sleeve holes and expand the lower section to make darts. Alter the neck line to reflect design.

3.  Trace the pencil lines in permanent marker.

3. Trace the pencil lines in permanent marker.

4.  Repeat steps 1-3 , but keep the collar high for the back.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 , but keep the collar high for the back.

Then you have to add seam allowance.  My friend/coworker Sarah found this cool pin that details how to easily make a seam allowance.  I followed those instructions.

5.  Tape 2 pencils together.  Put one pencil on the seam line and draw.  This will create a perfect 1/4" seam allowance.

5. Tape 2 pencils together. Put one pencil on the seam line and draw. This will create a perfect 1/4″ seam allowance.

6.  Trace the seam allowance line with permanent marker.  Label the fold line.

6. Trace the seam allowance line with permanent marker. Label the fold line.

☒  Sew muslin

For the first time in my life, I made a muslin.  I cut out my bodice pieces out of muslin and sewed it together to make sure it fit right.  It was nice to see that my first attempt at designing darts into my pattern worked perfectly.

☒  Cut out fabric

There is this magical item out there that’s called marking paper.  It has either white or colored chalk on it.  You’re supposed to use it to mark lines from patterns on your fabric, like dart lines.  I don’t own marking paper, and I was on a roll, so I marked along the dart lines with pencil several times then turned the pattern over and traced the other side of the pattern along the same lines.  The result was a transfer of the pencil line onto the back of my satin.

Step 15

☒  Assemble bodice (minus side seams)

Then I sewed the shoulder seams together and hung it on the dress form to wait.

☐  Attach gold ribbon at collar

I didn’t do the detail yet, because I haven’t put it on Celestia to make sure that the bottom of the collar is the right place.

☐ Closure in the back (zipper? + 30 min)

Trying to think about how I want to close this dress.  I hate zippers and I’m putting that off until the rest of it’s done.

Sleeves
☒  Make pattern

There were a lot of steps I took to make the sleeves because I want them puffy.   I had to spend some time finding the original tutorial I used to learn how to make puff sleeves originally.  Here it is.

7.  Trace one side of the arm hole and leave an inch out on the body side.

7. Trace one side of the arm hole and leave an inch out on the body side.

8.  Measure down the length of the sleeve from the top of the curve and complete the sleeve shape.

8. Measure down the length of the sleeve from the top of the curve and complete the sleeve shape.

9.  Cut the sleeve pattern into 6 pieces.

9. Cut the sleeve pattern into 6 pieces.

10.  Spread the pieces out evenly on another piece of muslin.

10. Spread the pieces out evenly on another piece of muslin.

11.  Trace out the pieces of the pattern on the muslin piece.  Add seam allowance around it.

11. Trace out the pieces of the pattern on the muslin piece. Add seam allowance around it.

12.  Cut the pattern into 4 and retrace those pieces with 1/2" of seam allowance on attaching sides.  Label the colors they'll be.

12. Cut the pattern into 4 and retrace those pieces with 1/2″ of seam allowance on attaching sides. Label the colors they’ll be.

☒  Cut out fabric

13.  Cut out 2 pieces of each color.

13. Cut out 2 pieces of each color.

☒  Serge organza while assembling
☒  Serge perimeters

14.  Serge the pieces together then serge around the outside.

14. Serge the pieces together then serge around the outside.

☐ Attach gold ribbon
☒  Attach sleeves to bodice

15.  Gather the sleeve into the sleeve hole.

15. Gather the sleeve into the sleeve hole.

☒  Sew side seams and sleeves

16.  Sew the side seams and sleeve seams.

16. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams.

☐ Elastic

I’ll put the elastic in once I put it on her.

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